NEW COLLECTION - AUDEMARS PIGUET - ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH

Three new timepieces are joining the prestigious lineage of Royal Oak Offshore chronographs.

Historically, the Royal Oak Offshore is the largest of the large. Disproportionate? Gigantic? When it was first introduced in 1992, some even went so far as to claim it was an insult to good taste. It proved to be a pioneer! Its design echoed the vigorous shape of the Royal Oak, the famous octagon that in 1972 had shaken up the peaceful scene of classic round watches. But 20 years later, the Royal Oak Offshore was even sturdier and more masculine. It set the trend for large-sized watches that has continued ever since. Today, the Royal Oak Offshore collection is reaffirming its supremacy, since the case of the new threesome measures a full 44 millimeters.

In each of the three versions, the case is composed of two materials. Ceramic is associated with steel for the first, with forged carbon in the second, and with pink gold for the third. Forged carbon is a material borrowed from the field of aeronautics and which the Manufacture Audemars Piguet was the first to introduce into the world of fine watchmaking. The choice of ceramic for the bezel – the part most exposed to shocks and thus to scratches – is due to its extreme resistance and hardness. The level of finishing applied to this material deserves a mention, because although this material is currently much in favor in the watch industry, rarely is it finished with such meticulous care. Diamond-coated grinding wheels remove hundredths of a millimeter layers of material in order to achieve the same fine details one can achieve, but the process requires a large number of operations that are far more delicate and time-consuming. The contrasting materials serve to underscore the stature of the 44 millimeter case middles. With their surface featuring a vertical satin-brushed finish and their polished chamfers, the ceramic bezels accentuate the strong character of the octagonal shape, which is punctuated by its eight polished steel hexagonal screws in keeping with the signature codes of the collection. It is instantly recognizable, repeatedly imitated, but as yet unequaled!

The right-hand side of the watch has been the object of particular care. The push-piece guards are not part of the case, but are instead composed of two separate parts secured to the case by four visible screws. The push-pieces are composed of two parts: a base and a top that serves as a contact surface. The construction is thus highly complex and calls for a large number of operations, especially since the parts feature a wide variety of finishes. The pushpiece-guards are bead-blasted and satin-brushed, while the push-pieces are bead-blasted and feature a satin-brushed and polished top. These models thus involve far more than just a change of size. The entire aesthetic of the case has been reworked. The clear-cut edges define a chronograph with taut, sculptured lines radiating self-assurance, efficiency and extreme technical sophistication.

The dials adopt an extremely understated style. Nothing is purely decorative, and everything has been designed to enhance their readability. They feature faceted hands in white or pink gold and are coated with a luminescent substance. The contrasting colors mainly aim to facilitate legibility: a silver-toned dial and bezel with black counters and anthracite hour-markers for the steel version; and a black dial and flange with silver-toned counters and pink gold hour-markers for the pink gold version. On the forged carbon model dominated by black tones, the hour-markers are highlighted in the luminescent green color typical of measuring instruments. The chronograph indications are distinguished by the red accents of the chronograph counter hands and the central sweep seconds hand. Each of the dials carries the collection’s trademark “Méga Tapisserie” motif, while the grooved black rubber strap also complies with the original identity codes.

Turning over the watch enables one to gaze through its transparent back to admire its beating heart. Developed on the basis of Audemars Piguet Calibre 3120, the 3126/3840 movement is distinguished by its extreme reliability. Its cross-through balance-bridge ensures improved shock-resistance, while its rating remains stable thanks to a variable inertia balance fitted with eight inertia-blocks. Moreover, Calibre 3126/3840 provides excellent user-friendliness, particularly due to the instant-jump and fast-adjusted date mechanism, along with a 60-hour power reserve and a stop seconds device when setting the time.

One also notes the refined cutting out and meticulous craftsmanship lavished on this calibre may be admired through the sapphire crystal case-back. Hand-assembled and decorated in the Le Brassus workshops, this movement boasts an exceptional level of execution and finishing. Arranged in an elegantly harmonious manner, the bridges are carefully beveled and polished so as to reveal only clean-cut edges. The jewel sinks are diamond-polished, and the wheels feature beveled spokes and diamond-polished countersinks. Even the rim and lots of the screws are beveled. The mainplate is circular grained on both sides and the bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève.

The newly developed oscillating weight is crafted all of a piece from a block of 22-carat gold and is coated with an anthracite galvanic treatment in harmony with the sporting and technical spirit of the collection. The AP emblem is surrounded by two bevel-finished.

Technical Details

Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph References

26400SO.OO.A002CA.01
Case, pushpiece-guards, fastening studs and pin buckle in stainless steel; bezel, crown and push-pieces in black ceramics.
MSRP: $28,100

26400AU.OO.A002CA.01
Case in forged carbon; bezel, crown and push-pieces in black ceramics; pushpiece guards, fastening studs and pin buckle in titanium
MSRP: $31,100

26400RO.OO.A002CA.01
Case, pushpiece-guards fastening studs and pin buckle in 18-carat pink gold; bezel, crown and push-pieces in black ceramics.
MSRP: $52,100

Movement
Self-winding Calibre 3126/3840 Total diameter: 29.92 mm (131/4 lignes) Casing diameter: 26 mm Thickness: 7.16 mm 59 jewels 365 parts Up to 60-hour power reserve Cadence of the balance: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) Variable-inertia balance with eight inertia-blocks and flat balance-spring Geneva-type mobile balance-spring stud-holder Three-position winding stem Finishing: all parts finely decorated; mainplate circular-grained; bridges rhodiumed, beveled, snailed and adorned with Côtes de Genève. Diamond-polished jewel sinks; diamond-polished countersinks and beveled wheel spokes; beveled screw rims Partially open-worked 22-carat gold oscillating weight with anthracite galvanic treatment

Cases
Diameter: 44 mm Thickness: 14.43 mm Exhibition back with sapphire crystal pane and Royal Oak Offshore engraving

Dials
Exclusive “Méga Tapisserie” engraving
Applied faceted white or pink gold hour-markers with luminescent coating.

Straps
Black rubber, adorned with two grooves

Functions
Hours and minutes Small seconds at 12 o’clock Chronograph with central sweep-seconds hand, 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock and 12hour counter at 6 o’clock. Tachometric scale on the flange Date

NEW WATCH - ORIS - Maldives Limited Edition

Following the success of the Oris Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition in 2010, Oris presents the Maldives Limited Edition Series for 2011. Limited to 2000 pieces, 20 Swiss Francs per watch will be donated to environmental NGO Bluepeace, to help protect endangered marine life in the Maldives.

Available in a titanium case, the back of this unique divers watch features the Manta Ray Logo, paying homage to the endangered species.

The dark blue ceramic inlay on the unidirectional revolving top ring comes with an engraved 60 minute scale which can be used for precision timing for diving and other sporting activities. The indices and hands of the time piece are in Superluminova dark orange – resulting in an easy to read timepiece even when under water.

The titanium crown protector is fixed with distinctive Oris screws for added security and the double curved sapphire crystal is coated with an inside anti-reflex layer. The buckles of the rubber strap and metal bracelet can easily be adjusted to the desired length for comfortable fitting.

Product Features

Oris Maldives Limited Edition
No. 643 7654 7185 RS or MB, Ø 43.00mm
Limited to 2000 pieces

• Automatic mechanical movement Oris 643 with center hands for both hours and minutes, subsidiary second at 9h, date window
• Multi-piece Titanium case with unidirectional revolving top ring and ceramic inlay with engraved 60 minutes scale
• Inside and outside doomed sapphire crystal with non reflective coating on the inside
• Automatic helium valve at 9 o’clock position and stainless steel screw-in crown at 3 o’clock position
• Case back with special Manta Ray logo
• Water resistant to 30 bar / 300 meters
• Blue dial with applied indices filled with Superluminova in dark orange color
• Easy adjustable black rubber strap with folding clasp
or
• Multi-piece titanium metal bracelet with folding clasp

Set
Multipurpose soft pouch and Limited edition certificate

NEW WATCH - HUBLOT - KING POWER RED DEVIL

Hublot continues it's partnership with the storied football club Manchester United. This is the third watch resulting from the partnership.

The watch is a little more skeletonized than the run-of-the-mill King Power timepieces. The green of the index markers is based on the actual grass from ManU's hallowed home turf Old Trafford. Seriously! The freeze-dried blades of grass were inserted into the indexes and then lacquered.

Available in two flavors:

Microblasted ceramic 716.CI.1129.RX.MAN11 (500 pieces)
King Gold 716.OM.1129.RX.MAN11 (250 pieces)

NEW WATCH - BVLGARI - Endurer Chronosprint All Blacks

The new Bulgari Endurer Chronosprint All Blacks, Daniel Roth Collection celebrates the partnership between Bulgari and the world’s most famous rugby team, the New Zealand All Blacks.

In addition to the classic hour and minute functions displayed along a slightly off-centered axis, the mechanical self-winding movement – Calibre DR1306 – also drives a specific chronograph function.

The latter serves to measure relatively long times expressed in hours and minutes by means of two hands of different lengths mounted on a single axis. They run across a double railtrack scale bearing 12-hour and 60-minute graduations. Contrary to standard chronographs, this function cannot be stopped but is simply reset by pressing the ergonomically ridged pushbutton at 7.30. This automatically brings the two hands back to zero for a new measurement that begins instantly. This sophisticated movement also powers a large date display appearing through a window at 12 o’clock.

This patented mechanism features a dedicated construction based on the off-centered hour and minute functions enabling optimal positioning of the Chronosprint function counter. Finely decorated in harmony with the noblest Swiss craftsmanship traditions – including circular-grained surfaces, Côtes de Genève motifs and engravings – this Haute Horlogerie model beats at a cadence of 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and has a 45-hour power reserve.

The aesthetic of this All Blacks special edition gives pride of place to the benchmark values of the New Zealand team: the shaped case with its sturdy yet smoothly integrated lines is shaped in Staybrite® steel – a treatment that makes it extremely corrosion-proof. It also features a DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) treatment ensuring absolute resistance. Its elliptical shape characteristic of the Daniel Roth Collection asserts its sporting vocation while maintaining the inherent refinement of all exclusive Haute Horlogerie creations.

Topped by a concave screw-locked bezel, the case frames a dial graced with a symbolic motif reflecting a Maori tattoo, the Koru. A symbol of life, growth, strength, peace and renaissance, it expresses the perpetual renewal of the All Blacks legend and the founding values that continue to guide the team. Maori warriors wear this decoration as an affirmation of virility, rebirth and life. The hour-markers on the shiny anthracite dial are enhanced with black Superluminova® enabling easy read-off of the information even in the dark.

The original All Blacks® logo dating back to 1905 is applied on the case-back made of semi-transparent tinted sapphire crystal revealing fascinating glimpses of the movement crafted in the Bulgari Haute Horlogerie workshops in Le Sentier, in the Vallée de Joux. The model is firmly secured to the wrist by a rubber strap with a pin buckle and steel inserts DLC-treated ensuring an excellent hold and a supple feel. This special edition is delivered in a leather presentation box shaped like a life-sized rugby ball and stamped with the All Blacks logo.

The Endurer Chronosprint All Blacks special edition immortalizes the quest for performance and commitment cherished by the world’s most famous rugby team, while reflecting the elegance and innovation cultivated by Bulgari over the past 127 years.

Technical Specifications

Description:
DR1306, mechanical with unidirectional automatic winding by an oscillating weight; 34 jewels

Display:
Hours & minutes; patented large window-type date display: Chronosprint hours & minute function with push-button resetting

Power reserve:
45 hours

Frequency:
4Hz – 28,800 vph

Case:
DLC-treated (Diamond Like Carbon) steel and polished edges, 56.51 mm in diameter and 14.10 mm thick, sapphire crystal; screw-in back with semi-transparent tinted sapphire crystal and applied All Blacks logo; ergonomically ridged PVD-treated Chronosprint push-button and crown; water-resistant to 100 meters

Dial:
Engraved with a Maori motif, black Superluminova® treatment of hour-markers ensuring optimal readability

Mainplate and bridges:
Circular-grained mainplate; bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève, beveled and polished steel parts.

ONLY WATCH 2011 - TAG HEUER - MONACO Mikrograph 1/100th Of a Second Chronograph

TAG Heuer’s two most daring inventions in terms of movement and design will be auctioned on September 22, 2011 to benefit Duchenne muscular dystrophy research under the high patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco.

Watch collectors around the world will be captivated by this technical revolution of the Mikrograph movement, a masterpiece of Haute Horlogerie encased in the iconic square shape of the Monaco. The Monaco design remains, over four decades after its scene-stealing debut on the wrist of Steve McQueen in the movie Le Mans, as cool and cutting-edge as ever.

Unlike a conventional chronograph, the time base is not dependent on the watch (hence the name “stopwatch”). Chronograph functions can be started or stopped independently of watch functions.

The watch is automatically wound by means of a circular oscillating weight, and features a 42-hour power reserve.

As for the stopwatch, the balance wheel oscillates at 50 hertz, 360,000 vibrations per hour, with a 90-minute power reserve, and displays the 1/100th of a second with the central chronograph hand. Entirely designed, patented, developed and manufactured by TAG Heuer in La Chaux-de-Fonds, this innovation re-writes history in the field of high frequency movements.

The flying central hand indicates the 100th of a second. The design is unexpected: the hand's round, open tip allows precise reading of the graduations, which are printed on a sapphire disc. The "/100" engraving is laser-cut by hand. The counter at 3 o'clock indicates chronograph minutes on a rotating disc with 3 hands, graduated 0 / 10 / 20. The counter at 9 o'clock features a small second, also on a rotating disc with 3 hands, graduated 0 / 20 / 40 to facilitate reading. The third sub-counter at 6 o’clock indicates chronograph seconds. Fire-red touches on the hands are reminiscent of the original Monaco’s motor racing style. The power reserve is indicated at 12 o'clock.

The dial is a highly sophisticated multi-level design, alternating black lacquer and silver opaline finishes. Oversized screws on the dial evoke the engine of a sports car.

A refined touch of black lacquer has been added to the oversized crown and chronograph push-buttons. The black strap is in "Barenia", the highest quality of calfskin leather, and the red color in the perforations echoes the fire-red hands of the dial.

For a very special watch, a very special watch box.

Internationally acclaimed South African artist Paul du Toit has personally committed to create a unique piece of art to host the Monaco Mikrograph. The watch box art will be conceptualized and painted by this celebrated artist.

Paul du Toit has gained stature in Europe following the award of a medal from the city of Florence in the Biennale Internationale Dell'arte Contemporanea. Renowned for using an impasto technique (thick industrial paste into which he scratched lines and images), it is now intrinsic to his style of automatic scribbling.

As a firmly entrenched artist, Paul du Toit is able to dedicate attention to community project involvement. Philanthropy resonates deeply with him. Paul was involved directly with Nelson Mandela in fundraising efforts for his 46664 campaign for 3 successive years. Ink handprints on canvas of Mr Mandela's boxing hand were auctioned in Johannesburg and in London. In 2009, a mould of Mr Mandela's boxing hand, which was cast in a one-off unique bronze, was auctioned in London for $3.5m. In 2010, an imprint of both Mr. Mandela's hands were made into a relief sculpture and auctioned in NYC. All the auctions were to benefit Mr. Mandela's 46664 campaign.

Paul du Toit’s superb watch box for the TAG Heuer Monaco Mikrograph is sure to add to the unique timepiece’s sale price at Only Watch auction.

The one-off Monaco Mikrograph and its special display box will tour the world from August 30th to September 17th, with exhibitions in Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, Tokyo, Los Angeles, New York, Milan and Geneva. It will then be auctioned at the Only Watch event in Monaco on September 22, 2011. Proceeds of its sale will benefit Duchenne muscular dystrophy research.

Movement:
• TAG Heuer Mikrograph 1/100 sec. – Manufacture movement – Automatic Chronograph (360,000 beats per hour) – COSC certified watch movement – Power Reserve – Date

Dial:
• Anthracite and silver (Opalin Rhodium) dial: Minutes and hours in the center counter, small second counter at 9 o’clock , chronograph minutes counter at 3 o’clock, chronograph second counter at 6 o’clock
• Chronograph power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock
• Black titanium carbide coated hour and minute hands with luminescent markers
• Polished steel central 1/100th of a second chronograph hand with “1/100th“ laser cutting
• Red chronograph minute and second hands
• White small second hands
• White power reserve hand at 12 o’clock.
• Hand applied monochrome TAG Heuer logo
• Minuterie printed on smoked sapphire crystal circle


Case:
• Case size : 43mm
• Fine brushed and polished stainless steel case
• Double antireflective curved sapphire crystal
• Steel and black lacquer crown and push buttons
• Applied TAG Heuer logo on case side at 9’o clock
• Sapphire case back to allow direct view on the movement and “Only Watch 2011” engraving on the oscillating weight
• Water-resistance: 100 meters

Bracelet:
• Black perforated Barenia calfskin leather strap with red-colored perforations
• Folding buckle with safety push-buttons

NEW WATCH - HUBLOT - OCEANOGRAPHIC 4000

I was thinking of diving the Mariana Trench this weekend. Since it's 10,916 meters deep (35,814 feet), I need a watch that can function at that depth and not let me down. Seriously? No. But should I think of diving the trench, I could get down 40-50% of the way with Hublot's new Oceanographic 4000 (Water resistant to 4,000 meters or 13,120 feet).

Available in two flavors, titanium (731.NX.1190.RX for $19,900) and black carbon fiber (731.QX.1140.RX for $25,900), this diving watch means business. The former is limited to 1,000 pieces, the latter to 500. And if you just have to go down to 5,000 meters, rest assured, it should maintain its water-tightness at that level according to NIHS standards.

One of the features that allow this timepiece to maintain its water resistance at such insane depths is a 6.5mm front crystal and a screw-down caseback engineered from grade 2 titanium.

The crown at 2 sets the dive time via the flange. The crown at 4 is for the usual functions of setting time and date.

Two straps accompany this behemoth - at 48mm it's pretty large. One of black rubber for black-tie functions, the other a lengthier rubber and nylon compositon that can be worn over a dive suit.

NEW WATCH - JAEGER-LECOULTRE - DUOMETRE A QUANTIEME LUNAIRE

The Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire embodies the latest in horological achievements of Jaeger-LeCoultre: it displays time with a jumping seconds hand showing 1/6th of a second increments and additionally providing the date and the age of the moon in a separate sub dial. The true genius of this watch however lies within the Dual-Wing movement concept, which features two independent power supplies: one entirely dedicated to creating a perfect timing foundation – regulated by escapement and balance –, the other solely for the display of time – hour, minute and seconds hands – as well as date and the age of the moon for the Northern as well as the Southern hemisphere. Both are synchronized through the jumping seconds hand mechanism driven by the escapement.

Movement:
• mechanical manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381, crafted, assembled and decorated
by hand
• 21,600 vibrations per hour
• 50-hour power reserve
• 369 parts
• 40 jewels
• 7.25 mm high
• 33.7 mm diameter
• two independent barrels

Functions:
• hours, minutes, seconds, jumping-second, date, moon-phase (North and South), age of the moon, power reserve
• movement power reserve

Dial:
• black, matt with appliqués numerals
Hands:
• hour and minute: leaf-type, brass, gold-plated
• seconds: baton with pear-shaped counterweight, gold-plated

Crown:
• 1 crown to start the watch, to wind the watch functions power reserve, to wind the movement power reserve and to adjust the hours and minutes
• 1 push piece to set the date
• 1 corrector to set the moon phase

Case:
• diameter 42 mm, thickness: 13.5 mm
• 18-carat white gold
• welded lugs
• polished and satin-brushed finishing
• cambered sapphire crystals, hardness N° 9, glareproofed on front and back
• water resistance: 5 atm

Straps:
• matt black alligator leather with folding clasp in 18-carat white gold

Reference:
• Q6043570, limited series of 200

She's a beauty. This is perhaps my favorite innovation:
The watch features two seconds hands. One at the center and a second one at 6 o’clock: a jumping seconds hand accurate to 1/6th of a second. Setting the time is easily performed by pulling the crown: Then both seconds hands, the center seconds hand and the jumping seconds hand jump to the zero-position leaving the escapement running. Pushing the crown activates both hands simultaneously by re-coupling into the running escapement. Once released, the wheels of the hands simply interlock with the active mechanism and begin to turn on the spot at the speed of the clock, which is 3 Hertz. This accuracy is reached instantaneously because the balance has been breathing even with the hands on hold. Whereas with the traditional second’s stop, which freezes the balance wheel, the watch needs several minutes before it is back in its original rhythm – minutes, in which the balance wheel has to pick up speed again and which add up to a time deviation of many seconds. Thus precise adjustment with a timing signal for normal watches remains an illusion. The mechanism behind the two hands is based on two escape wheels fixed to the same axis: one works with the lever while the other is driving the seconde foudroyante through the jumping seconds star. Upon pulling the crown, a lever is stopping the jumping second when it reaches the zero-position. At the same time a “return to zero” hammer pushes the central second’s hand to the 12 o’clock position through the use of a seconds heart cam. No other watch allows for such an accurate setting of the time, and this technical feature is perfectly in line with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s quest for even more accuracy in timekeeping.