NEW COLLECTION - AUDEMARS PIGUET - ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE CHRONOGRAPH

Three new timepieces are joining the prestigious lineage of Royal Oak Offshore chronographs.

Historically, the Royal Oak Offshore is the largest of the large. Disproportionate? Gigantic? When it was first introduced in 1992, some even went so far as to claim it was an insult to good taste. It proved to be a pioneer! Its design echoed the vigorous shape of the Royal Oak, the famous octagon that in 1972 had shaken up the peaceful scene of classic round watches. But 20 years later, the Royal Oak Offshore was even sturdier and more masculine. It set the trend for large-sized watches that has continued ever since. Today, the Royal Oak Offshore collection is reaffirming its supremacy, since the case of the new threesome measures a full 44 millimeters.

In each of the three versions, the case is composed of two materials. Ceramic is associated with steel for the first, with forged carbon in the second, and with pink gold for the third. Forged carbon is a material borrowed from the field of aeronautics and which the Manufacture Audemars Piguet was the first to introduce into the world of fine watchmaking. The choice of ceramic for the bezel – the part most exposed to shocks and thus to scratches – is due to its extreme resistance and hardness. The level of finishing applied to this material deserves a mention, because although this material is currently much in favor in the watch industry, rarely is it finished with such meticulous care. Diamond-coated grinding wheels remove hundredths of a millimeter layers of material in order to achieve the same fine details one can achieve, but the process requires a large number of operations that are far more delicate and time-consuming. The contrasting materials serve to underscore the stature of the 44 millimeter case middles. With their surface featuring a vertical satin-brushed finish and their polished chamfers, the ceramic bezels accentuate the strong character of the octagonal shape, which is punctuated by its eight polished steel hexagonal screws in keeping with the signature codes of the collection. It is instantly recognizable, repeatedly imitated, but as yet unequaled!

The right-hand side of the watch has been the object of particular care. The push-piece guards are not part of the case, but are instead composed of two separate parts secured to the case by four visible screws. The push-pieces are composed of two parts: a base and a top that serves as a contact surface. The construction is thus highly complex and calls for a large number of operations, especially since the parts feature a wide variety of finishes. The pushpiece-guards are bead-blasted and satin-brushed, while the push-pieces are bead-blasted and feature a satin-brushed and polished top. These models thus involve far more than just a change of size. The entire aesthetic of the case has been reworked. The clear-cut edges define a chronograph with taut, sculptured lines radiating self-assurance, efficiency and extreme technical sophistication.

The dials adopt an extremely understated style. Nothing is purely decorative, and everything has been designed to enhance their readability. They feature faceted hands in white or pink gold and are coated with a luminescent substance. The contrasting colors mainly aim to facilitate legibility: a silver-toned dial and bezel with black counters and anthracite hour-markers for the steel version; and a black dial and flange with silver-toned counters and pink gold hour-markers for the pink gold version. On the forged carbon model dominated by black tones, the hour-markers are highlighted in the luminescent green color typical of measuring instruments. The chronograph indications are distinguished by the red accents of the chronograph counter hands and the central sweep seconds hand. Each of the dials carries the collection’s trademark “Méga Tapisserie” motif, while the grooved black rubber strap also complies with the original identity codes.

Turning over the watch enables one to gaze through its transparent back to admire its beating heart. Developed on the basis of Audemars Piguet Calibre 3120, the 3126/3840 movement is distinguished by its extreme reliability. Its cross-through balance-bridge ensures improved shock-resistance, while its rating remains stable thanks to a variable inertia balance fitted with eight inertia-blocks. Moreover, Calibre 3126/3840 provides excellent user-friendliness, particularly due to the instant-jump and fast-adjusted date mechanism, along with a 60-hour power reserve and a stop seconds device when setting the time.

One also notes the refined cutting out and meticulous craftsmanship lavished on this calibre may be admired through the sapphire crystal case-back. Hand-assembled and decorated in the Le Brassus workshops, this movement boasts an exceptional level of execution and finishing. Arranged in an elegantly harmonious manner, the bridges are carefully beveled and polished so as to reveal only clean-cut edges. The jewel sinks are diamond-polished, and the wheels feature beveled spokes and diamond-polished countersinks. Even the rim and lots of the screws are beveled. The mainplate is circular grained on both sides and the bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève.

The newly developed oscillating weight is crafted all of a piece from a block of 22-carat gold and is coated with an anthracite galvanic treatment in harmony with the sporting and technical spirit of the collection. The AP emblem is surrounded by two bevel-finished.

Technical Details

Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph References

26400SO.OO.A002CA.01
Case, pushpiece-guards, fastening studs and pin buckle in stainless steel; bezel, crown and push-pieces in black ceramics.
MSRP: $28,100

26400AU.OO.A002CA.01
Case in forged carbon; bezel, crown and push-pieces in black ceramics; pushpiece guards, fastening studs and pin buckle in titanium
MSRP: $31,100

26400RO.OO.A002CA.01
Case, pushpiece-guards fastening studs and pin buckle in 18-carat pink gold; bezel, crown and push-pieces in black ceramics.
MSRP: $52,100

Movement
Self-winding Calibre 3126/3840 Total diameter: 29.92 mm (131/4 lignes) Casing diameter: 26 mm Thickness: 7.16 mm 59 jewels 365 parts Up to 60-hour power reserve Cadence of the balance: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) Variable-inertia balance with eight inertia-blocks and flat balance-spring Geneva-type mobile balance-spring stud-holder Three-position winding stem Finishing: all parts finely decorated; mainplate circular-grained; bridges rhodiumed, beveled, snailed and adorned with Côtes de Genève. Diamond-polished jewel sinks; diamond-polished countersinks and beveled wheel spokes; beveled screw rims Partially open-worked 22-carat gold oscillating weight with anthracite galvanic treatment

Cases
Diameter: 44 mm Thickness: 14.43 mm Exhibition back with sapphire crystal pane and Royal Oak Offshore engraving

Dials
Exclusive “Méga Tapisserie” engraving
Applied faceted white or pink gold hour-markers with luminescent coating.

Straps
Black rubber, adorned with two grooves

Functions
Hours and minutes Small seconds at 12 o’clock Chronograph with central sweep-seconds hand, 30-minute counter at 9 o’clock and 12hour counter at 6 o’clock. Tachometric scale on the flange Date

NEW WATCH - ORIS - Maldives Limited Edition

Following the success of the Oris Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition in 2010, Oris presents the Maldives Limited Edition Series for 2011. Limited to 2000 pieces, 20 Swiss Francs per watch will be donated to environmental NGO Bluepeace, to help protect endangered marine life in the Maldives.

Available in a titanium case, the back of this unique divers watch features the Manta Ray Logo, paying homage to the endangered species.

The dark blue ceramic inlay on the unidirectional revolving top ring comes with an engraved 60 minute scale which can be used for precision timing for diving and other sporting activities. The indices and hands of the time piece are in Superluminova dark orange – resulting in an easy to read timepiece even when under water.

The titanium crown protector is fixed with distinctive Oris screws for added security and the double curved sapphire crystal is coated with an inside anti-reflex layer. The buckles of the rubber strap and metal bracelet can easily be adjusted to the desired length for comfortable fitting.

Product Features

Oris Maldives Limited Edition
No. 643 7654 7185 RS or MB, Ø 43.00mm
Limited to 2000 pieces

• Automatic mechanical movement Oris 643 with center hands for both hours and minutes, subsidiary second at 9h, date window
• Multi-piece Titanium case with unidirectional revolving top ring and ceramic inlay with engraved 60 minutes scale
• Inside and outside doomed sapphire crystal with non reflective coating on the inside
• Automatic helium valve at 9 o’clock position and stainless steel screw-in crown at 3 o’clock position
• Case back with special Manta Ray logo
• Water resistant to 30 bar / 300 meters
• Blue dial with applied indices filled with Superluminova in dark orange color
• Easy adjustable black rubber strap with folding clasp
or
• Multi-piece titanium metal bracelet with folding clasp

Set
Multipurpose soft pouch and Limited edition certificate

NEW WATCH - HUBLOT - KING POWER RED DEVIL

Hublot continues it's partnership with the storied football club Manchester United. This is the third watch resulting from the partnership.

The watch is a little more skeletonized than the run-of-the-mill King Power timepieces. The green of the index markers is based on the actual grass from ManU's hallowed home turf Old Trafford. Seriously! The freeze-dried blades of grass were inserted into the indexes and then lacquered.

Available in two flavors:

Microblasted ceramic 716.CI.1129.RX.MAN11 (500 pieces)
King Gold 716.OM.1129.RX.MAN11 (250 pieces)

NEW WATCH - BVLGARI - Endurer Chronosprint All Blacks

The new Bulgari Endurer Chronosprint All Blacks, Daniel Roth Collection celebrates the partnership between Bulgari and the world’s most famous rugby team, the New Zealand All Blacks.

In addition to the classic hour and minute functions displayed along a slightly off-centered axis, the mechanical self-winding movement – Calibre DR1306 – also drives a specific chronograph function.

The latter serves to measure relatively long times expressed in hours and minutes by means of two hands of different lengths mounted on a single axis. They run across a double railtrack scale bearing 12-hour and 60-minute graduations. Contrary to standard chronographs, this function cannot be stopped but is simply reset by pressing the ergonomically ridged pushbutton at 7.30. This automatically brings the two hands back to zero for a new measurement that begins instantly. This sophisticated movement also powers a large date display appearing through a window at 12 o’clock.

This patented mechanism features a dedicated construction based on the off-centered hour and minute functions enabling optimal positioning of the Chronosprint function counter. Finely decorated in harmony with the noblest Swiss craftsmanship traditions – including circular-grained surfaces, Côtes de Genève motifs and engravings – this Haute Horlogerie model beats at a cadence of 28,800 vph (4 Hz) and has a 45-hour power reserve.

The aesthetic of this All Blacks special edition gives pride of place to the benchmark values of the New Zealand team: the shaped case with its sturdy yet smoothly integrated lines is shaped in Staybrite® steel – a treatment that makes it extremely corrosion-proof. It also features a DLC (Diamond Like Carbon) treatment ensuring absolute resistance. Its elliptical shape characteristic of the Daniel Roth Collection asserts its sporting vocation while maintaining the inherent refinement of all exclusive Haute Horlogerie creations.

Topped by a concave screw-locked bezel, the case frames a dial graced with a symbolic motif reflecting a Maori tattoo, the Koru. A symbol of life, growth, strength, peace and renaissance, it expresses the perpetual renewal of the All Blacks legend and the founding values that continue to guide the team. Maori warriors wear this decoration as an affirmation of virility, rebirth and life. The hour-markers on the shiny anthracite dial are enhanced with black Superluminova® enabling easy read-off of the information even in the dark.

The original All Blacks® logo dating back to 1905 is applied on the case-back made of semi-transparent tinted sapphire crystal revealing fascinating glimpses of the movement crafted in the Bulgari Haute Horlogerie workshops in Le Sentier, in the Vallée de Joux. The model is firmly secured to the wrist by a rubber strap with a pin buckle and steel inserts DLC-treated ensuring an excellent hold and a supple feel. This special edition is delivered in a leather presentation box shaped like a life-sized rugby ball and stamped with the All Blacks logo.

The Endurer Chronosprint All Blacks special edition immortalizes the quest for performance and commitment cherished by the world’s most famous rugby team, while reflecting the elegance and innovation cultivated by Bulgari over the past 127 years.

Technical Specifications

Description:
DR1306, mechanical with unidirectional automatic winding by an oscillating weight; 34 jewels

Display:
Hours & minutes; patented large window-type date display: Chronosprint hours & minute function with push-button resetting

Power reserve:
45 hours

Frequency:
4Hz – 28,800 vph

Case:
DLC-treated (Diamond Like Carbon) steel and polished edges, 56.51 mm in diameter and 14.10 mm thick, sapphire crystal; screw-in back with semi-transparent tinted sapphire crystal and applied All Blacks logo; ergonomically ridged PVD-treated Chronosprint push-button and crown; water-resistant to 100 meters

Dial:
Engraved with a Maori motif, black Superluminova® treatment of hour-markers ensuring optimal readability

Mainplate and bridges:
Circular-grained mainplate; bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève, beveled and polished steel parts.

ONLY WATCH 2011 - TAG HEUER - MONACO Mikrograph 1/100th Of a Second Chronograph

TAG Heuer’s two most daring inventions in terms of movement and design will be auctioned on September 22, 2011 to benefit Duchenne muscular dystrophy research under the high patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco.

Watch collectors around the world will be captivated by this technical revolution of the Mikrograph movement, a masterpiece of Haute Horlogerie encased in the iconic square shape of the Monaco. The Monaco design remains, over four decades after its scene-stealing debut on the wrist of Steve McQueen in the movie Le Mans, as cool and cutting-edge as ever.

Unlike a conventional chronograph, the time base is not dependent on the watch (hence the name “stopwatch”). Chronograph functions can be started or stopped independently of watch functions.

The watch is automatically wound by means of a circular oscillating weight, and features a 42-hour power reserve.

As for the stopwatch, the balance wheel oscillates at 50 hertz, 360,000 vibrations per hour, with a 90-minute power reserve, and displays the 1/100th of a second with the central chronograph hand. Entirely designed, patented, developed and manufactured by TAG Heuer in La Chaux-de-Fonds, this innovation re-writes history in the field of high frequency movements.

The flying central hand indicates the 100th of a second. The design is unexpected: the hand's round, open tip allows precise reading of the graduations, which are printed on a sapphire disc. The "/100" engraving is laser-cut by hand. The counter at 3 o'clock indicates chronograph minutes on a rotating disc with 3 hands, graduated 0 / 10 / 20. The counter at 9 o'clock features a small second, also on a rotating disc with 3 hands, graduated 0 / 20 / 40 to facilitate reading. The third sub-counter at 6 o’clock indicates chronograph seconds. Fire-red touches on the hands are reminiscent of the original Monaco’s motor racing style. The power reserve is indicated at 12 o'clock.

The dial is a highly sophisticated multi-level design, alternating black lacquer and silver opaline finishes. Oversized screws on the dial evoke the engine of a sports car.

A refined touch of black lacquer has been added to the oversized crown and chronograph push-buttons. The black strap is in "Barenia", the highest quality of calfskin leather, and the red color in the perforations echoes the fire-red hands of the dial.

For a very special watch, a very special watch box.

Internationally acclaimed South African artist Paul du Toit has personally committed to create a unique piece of art to host the Monaco Mikrograph. The watch box art will be conceptualized and painted by this celebrated artist.

Paul du Toit has gained stature in Europe following the award of a medal from the city of Florence in the Biennale Internationale Dell'arte Contemporanea. Renowned for using an impasto technique (thick industrial paste into which he scratched lines and images), it is now intrinsic to his style of automatic scribbling.

As a firmly entrenched artist, Paul du Toit is able to dedicate attention to community project involvement. Philanthropy resonates deeply with him. Paul was involved directly with Nelson Mandela in fundraising efforts for his 46664 campaign for 3 successive years. Ink handprints on canvas of Mr Mandela's boxing hand were auctioned in Johannesburg and in London. In 2009, a mould of Mr Mandela's boxing hand, which was cast in a one-off unique bronze, was auctioned in London for $3.5m. In 2010, an imprint of both Mr. Mandela's hands were made into a relief sculpture and auctioned in NYC. All the auctions were to benefit Mr. Mandela's 46664 campaign.

Paul du Toit’s superb watch box for the TAG Heuer Monaco Mikrograph is sure to add to the unique timepiece’s sale price at Only Watch auction.

The one-off Monaco Mikrograph and its special display box will tour the world from August 30th to September 17th, with exhibitions in Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Beijing, Tokyo, Los Angeles, New York, Milan and Geneva. It will then be auctioned at the Only Watch event in Monaco on September 22, 2011. Proceeds of its sale will benefit Duchenne muscular dystrophy research.

Movement:
• TAG Heuer Mikrograph 1/100 sec. – Manufacture movement – Automatic Chronograph (360,000 beats per hour) – COSC certified watch movement – Power Reserve – Date

Dial:
• Anthracite and silver (Opalin Rhodium) dial: Minutes and hours in the center counter, small second counter at 9 o’clock , chronograph minutes counter at 3 o’clock, chronograph second counter at 6 o’clock
• Chronograph power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock
• Black titanium carbide coated hour and minute hands with luminescent markers
• Polished steel central 1/100th of a second chronograph hand with “1/100th“ laser cutting
• Red chronograph minute and second hands
• White small second hands
• White power reserve hand at 12 o’clock.
• Hand applied monochrome TAG Heuer logo
• Minuterie printed on smoked sapphire crystal circle


Case:
• Case size : 43mm
• Fine brushed and polished stainless steel case
• Double antireflective curved sapphire crystal
• Steel and black lacquer crown and push buttons
• Applied TAG Heuer logo on case side at 9’o clock
• Sapphire case back to allow direct view on the movement and “Only Watch 2011” engraving on the oscillating weight
• Water-resistance: 100 meters

Bracelet:
• Black perforated Barenia calfskin leather strap with red-colored perforations
• Folding buckle with safety push-buttons

NEW WATCH - HUBLOT - OCEANOGRAPHIC 4000

I was thinking of diving the Mariana Trench this weekend. Since it's 10,916 meters deep (35,814 feet), I need a watch that can function at that depth and not let me down. Seriously? No. But should I think of diving the trench, I could get down 40-50% of the way with Hublot's new Oceanographic 4000 (Water resistant to 4,000 meters or 13,120 feet).

Available in two flavors, titanium (731.NX.1190.RX for $19,900) and black carbon fiber (731.QX.1140.RX for $25,900), this diving watch means business. The former is limited to 1,000 pieces, the latter to 500. And if you just have to go down to 5,000 meters, rest assured, it should maintain its water-tightness at that level according to NIHS standards.

One of the features that allow this timepiece to maintain its water resistance at such insane depths is a 6.5mm front crystal and a screw-down caseback engineered from grade 2 titanium.

The crown at 2 sets the dive time via the flange. The crown at 4 is for the usual functions of setting time and date.

Two straps accompany this behemoth - at 48mm it's pretty large. One of black rubber for black-tie functions, the other a lengthier rubber and nylon compositon that can be worn over a dive suit.

NEW WATCH - JAEGER-LECOULTRE - DUOMETRE A QUANTIEME LUNAIRE

The Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire embodies the latest in horological achievements of Jaeger-LeCoultre: it displays time with a jumping seconds hand showing 1/6th of a second increments and additionally providing the date and the age of the moon in a separate sub dial. The true genius of this watch however lies within the Dual-Wing movement concept, which features two independent power supplies: one entirely dedicated to creating a perfect timing foundation – regulated by escapement and balance –, the other solely for the display of time – hour, minute and seconds hands – as well as date and the age of the moon for the Northern as well as the Southern hemisphere. Both are synchronized through the jumping seconds hand mechanism driven by the escapement.

Movement:
• mechanical manually-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 381, crafted, assembled and decorated
by hand
• 21,600 vibrations per hour
• 50-hour power reserve
• 369 parts
• 40 jewels
• 7.25 mm high
• 33.7 mm diameter
• two independent barrels

Functions:
• hours, minutes, seconds, jumping-second, date, moon-phase (North and South), age of the moon, power reserve
• movement power reserve

Dial:
• black, matt with appliqués numerals
Hands:
• hour and minute: leaf-type, brass, gold-plated
• seconds: baton with pear-shaped counterweight, gold-plated

Crown:
• 1 crown to start the watch, to wind the watch functions power reserve, to wind the movement power reserve and to adjust the hours and minutes
• 1 push piece to set the date
• 1 corrector to set the moon phase

Case:
• diameter 42 mm, thickness: 13.5 mm
• 18-carat white gold
• welded lugs
• polished and satin-brushed finishing
• cambered sapphire crystals, hardness N° 9, glareproofed on front and back
• water resistance: 5 atm

Straps:
• matt black alligator leather with folding clasp in 18-carat white gold

Reference:
• Q6043570, limited series of 200

She's a beauty. This is perhaps my favorite innovation:
The watch features two seconds hands. One at the center and a second one at 6 o’clock: a jumping seconds hand accurate to 1/6th of a second. Setting the time is easily performed by pulling the crown: Then both seconds hands, the center seconds hand and the jumping seconds hand jump to the zero-position leaving the escapement running. Pushing the crown activates both hands simultaneously by re-coupling into the running escapement. Once released, the wheels of the hands simply interlock with the active mechanism and begin to turn on the spot at the speed of the clock, which is 3 Hertz. This accuracy is reached instantaneously because the balance has been breathing even with the hands on hold. Whereas with the traditional second’s stop, which freezes the balance wheel, the watch needs several minutes before it is back in its original rhythm – minutes, in which the balance wheel has to pick up speed again and which add up to a time deviation of many seconds. Thus precise adjustment with a timing signal for normal watches remains an illusion. The mechanism behind the two hands is based on two escape wheels fixed to the same axis: one works with the lever while the other is driving the seconde foudroyante through the jumping seconds star. Upon pulling the crown, a lever is stopping the jumping second when it reaches the zero-position. At the same time a “return to zero” hammer pushes the central second’s hand to the 12 o’clock position through the use of a seconds heart cam. No other watch allows for such an accurate setting of the time, and this technical feature is perfectly in line with Jaeger-LeCoultre’s quest for even more accuracy in timekeeping.

NEW WATCH - BREITLING - NAVITIMER SUPER CONSTELLATION LIMITED EDITION

In parallel with Breitling's restoration of service to the famous Breitling Super Constellation aircraft, the brand has released the eponymous Navitimer Super Constellation.

Movement: Breitling Caliber 23, officially chronometer-certified by the COSC, selfwinding, high-frequency (28,800 vibrations per hour), 25 jewels. 1/4th of a second chronograph, 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers. Calendar. Case: Steel, limited series of 1,049. Resistance to 3 bars. Rotating bezel with circular slide rule. Cambered sapphire crystal, glareproofed on both sides. Diameter: 42 mm. Dial: Black. Strap/Bracelet: Barenia leather, crocodile leather/Navitimer, Air Racer.

Nice looking piece!

FROM THE OMG DEPARTMENT

Many readers may be familiar with Vacheron Constantin's Atelier Cabinotiers service, a service created in 2006 that custom-makes fine watches to customer's unique specifications.

Vacheron has shared two of these unique pieces with the horological world;

• Philosophia: the paradoxical timekeeper.
• Vladimir: the ultimate in complications.


Philosophia*: the other way to tell the time

The original idea was based on the postulate that mankind does not need to constantly know the exact time to the nearest minute. In some parts of the world, making an appointment “in the morning” or “in the evening” is quite sufficient to allow two people to meet. In the same spirit, knowing that it is 12 or 17 minutes past ten o’clock does not make the Philosophia*’s owner any happier or unhappier. However, while this man has decided on a lifestyle of displaying approximate time, he is no less a connoisseur of excellence. Far from being indifferent, he is in fact a Fine Watchmaking enthusiast and a major collector of timepieces.


The Philosophia* conveys all of these things at once. Based on a model from the Patrimony collection, it has only one hand in the centre, the hour hand, with a 24-hour display, allowing the approximate hour to be read without worrying about the minutes. But if the owner wants a more exact idea of the time at any given moment, he simply engages the on-off slide of the Philosophia*’s minute repeater, which reveals the exact hour, quarter hour and minute. If the hand is a little before 6 o’clock, the chime will sound five times on a low note, three times on a low-to-high note pair, and, for example, twelve times on a high note. That means it is exactly 5:57.

Another sophisticated touch in the Philosophia* is an opening in the dial at 6 o’clock that reveals a tourbillon rotating once every 60 seconds. The commissioner of the piece, who also likes astronomy, asked for a customised precision moon phase; the moon is shown with its craters, and a single star – the pole star—shines near it. On the back of the watch, the power reserve indicator bears a small plaque stamped with the intertwined constellations Ursa Major and Ursa Minor. Nearby, engraved in the 18-carat pink gold of the custom case, the identifying phrase “Les Cabinotiers” and the Atelier Cabinotiers coat of arms attest to the exceptional origin of this timepiece, which is also stamped with the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva.

Highly customised, the entire Philosophia* - a one-of-a-kind model – was made piece by piece at Vacheron Constantin by Atelier Cabinotiers. At its owner’s request, it was engraved with “No Un/Un” [No. One/One] instead of the usual “1/1” marked on one-of-a-kind pieces. This attention to detail was the rule for all 522 components of the hand-wound mechanical movement that makes the Philosophia* tick. The movement that drives a minute repeater, a 60-second tourbillon and the moon-phase display. Careful attention was paid to the finishes of all components; even the surfaces that will never be seen are hand decorated. This is true, for example, of the plate and its hand matt-effect file-stroke treatment, which gives it a very beautiful granulated sandy effect but which no one –except the watchmaker who takes the watch apart for maintenance – will ever see. Another special detail is the openwork at the centre of the escapement wheel, which provides a place for a pierced Maltese Cross motif, the symbol of Vacheron Constantin.

Unique in its spirit, aesthetics and exclusive mechanism, the Philosophia model was recently delivered to its owner by Vacheron Constantin’s Atelier Cabinotiers. It goes without saying that the presentation box as well as all the accessories and related documents – including the instructions – were also custom-made, one of each.

* Philosophia is the name given by the owner

TECHNICAL DATA
Atelier Cabinotiers Philosophia

Reference: 80173/000R9483

Calibre: 2755
Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva

Energy: Mechanical, manual-winding
Movement diameter: 33.30 mm
Movement thickness: 7.65 mm
Jewels: 40
Frequency: 18’000 vibrations / hour (2.5 Hz)

Indications: Hours 24 H, second on tourbillon
Minute Repeater
Tourbillon
Power reserve on the back of the watch

Power reserve: Approx. 58 hours
Bespoke power reserve dial engraved with “great and lesser Bear”

Case: 18K 5N pink gold
43 mm in diameter
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side

Water-Resistance: None

Dial: Silvered opaline
Moon-phases disc in 18K 5N pink gold
Black painted minute-track and 11 Arabic numerals

Strap: Brown Mississipiensis alligator leather, square scales,
hand-stitched, saddle finish

Clasp: Buckle in 18K 5N pink gold
Polished half Maltese Cross


Unique piece
Case-back engraved with “Les Cabinotiers” identification and “AC” Hallmark

Vladimir*: the ultimate in complications and artistic crafts

The second special order was named Vladimir* by its owner. This Slavic first name is derived from the ancient term Volodimir, which literally means “domination by peace” or “peace to all.” This superlative watch is none other than one of the world’s most complicated timepieces. That is what its owner wanted, and Vacheron Constantin’s Atelier Cabinotiers gathered the resources to meet this very ambitious goal. As it began this extraordinary adventure and accepted this uncommon mechanical challenge, Vacheron Constantin knew it could count on its unusual expertise garnered over an uninterrupted span of more than 250 years in business. The Genevese Manufacture had demonstrated this during its quarter-millennial celebration in 2005 by designing and producing in its own workshops what was at the time the world’s most complicated wristwatch, the famous Tour de l’Ile. The Vladimir* model that has just left Ateliers Cabinotiers is even more complicated than that legendary model of 2005. The hand-wound mechanical movement of this unique Vladimir* watch drives no less than 17 complications. This exceptional movement, bearing the prestigious Hallmark of Geneva, has some 891 components, all hand-finished or hand-decorated at Vacheron Constantin. It is both a technical and aesthetic triumph that took Atelier Cabinotiers and its top-flight watchmakers four years to develop.

Just one look at the Vladimir*’s main dial, which was hand-engraved on a rose engine at Atelier Cabinotiers, gives an indication of the complexity of this horological masterpiece and reveals an impressive array of complications, in addition to the usual display of hours and minutes. To begin with the supreme example, the very refined 60-second tourbillon mechanism stands out at 6 o’clock, while next to it at 3 o’clock appears the moon phase on a blue sky with a precision moon in gold, smiling or serious depending on the phase and hand-engraved by Atelier Cabinotiers craftsmen. To its right, a smaller counter with a small blued hand indicates the striking mechanism torque, i.e., whether the minute repeater mechanism is engaged. In addition to the hour and minute hands – one-of-a-kind pieces made especially for this watch –that travel around the slightly off-centre minute markers, the front side of the main dial provides a second time zone with day/night indicator at 11 o’clock. The power reserve indicator is located in the 9 o’clock sector, also enhanced by a 52-week indicator. At this point, we have already seen seven easily identifiable complications on a well-balanced dial – with all of the motifs and materials having been selected by the purchaser – that are perfectly legible and aesthetically flawless. As another sign of the personalisation evident throughout the entire creative process, the guilloché pattern on the dial was also chosen by the collector of this exceptional timepiece.

The back is no less admirable than the front, having a wealth of information that is pleasantly arranged, exciting, subtle and surprising. On the upper portion, the perpetual calendar dials are arranged in a triangle, displaying the days of the week, month and date from left to right. A small window at 1 o’clock shows the leap-year cycle. In the centre of the dial, a blued hand sweeps over a small sector devoted to the equation of time, the variable difference observable between true (solar) time and the time marked by clocks, which for convenience is divided into equal intervals. Two other pieces of astronomical information are conveyed by hands traversing two sectors at 4 o’clock and 8 o’clock: the time of sunrise and sunset. The list of functions ends in a blaze of glory with a precision sky chart of the northern hemisphere, as one rarely sees it.

This exceptional mechanical watch bearing the Hallmark of Geneva has a setting to match. The Vladimir*’s case is itself a work of art, epitomising the legendary expertise and nimble fingers of Atelier Cabinotiers’ artistic craftsmen. On the sides of this unique and imposing piece, which is 47 mm in diameter, the signs of the Chinese zodiac appear in bas-relief. The motifs and the bas-relief technique (which is extremely rare in watchmaking) used here were both done by request of the owner. Before getting to the heart of the matter with regard to the subject and materials, the designers showed the purchaser many sketches. The decision was then made to depict the signs of the zodiac on both sides of the case, which itself is made of 18-carat pink gold. In the end, the twelve figures – from the dragon through the rabbit and the rooster to the snake – were made to stand out slightly from the main body of 18-carat pink gold. It was a colossal task for the engravers – the twelve figures alone took more than six months – and required that a very special case first had to be made with extra-thick sides, from which the superfluous material was removed, carving roughly at first and then in very fine detail. As with every other timepiece from Vacheron Constantin’s workshop, the case was then polished very subtly, a task made all the more difficult by the fact that it absolutely must not destroy the engraver’s incredible work on the bas-reliefs. In order to meet the challenge and create this extremely complex and unique timepiece, Atelier Cabinotiers called on more than 20 experts and craftsmen. It was a Herculean effort for a watch that deserves to join the legendary ranks of exceptional watchmaking.

* Vladimir is the name given by the owner

TECHNICAL DATA
Atelier Cabinotiers Vladimir

Reference: 80253/000R-9593


Calibre: 2750
Stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva
Energy: Mechanical, manual-winding
Movement diameter: 36.00 mm
Movement thickness: 11.25 mm
Jewels: 38
Frequency: 18’000 Vibrations / hour (2.5 Hz)

Indications: Hours, minutes, second on tourbillon
Minute repeater
Perpetual Calendar
Power reserve
Second time zone
Moon phase indication, age of the moon
Striking-mechanism torque
Perpetual time equation
Sunrise, sunset
Celestial map
Week number indication

Power reserve: Approx. 58 hours

Case: 18K 5N pink gold
47.00 mm in diameter
Convex sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on one side
Manual engraving of the 12 Chinese zodiac signs on the side of the case

Water-Resistance: None

Dial: 18K white gold
Hand-guilloched
Minute-track painted in white
8 applied hour markers in 18K pink gold

Strap: Brown Mississipiensis alligator leather, square scales, hand-stitched, saddle finish

Clasp: Buckle in 18K 5N pink gold
Polished half Maltese Cross

Unique piece
Case-back engraved with “Les Cabinotiers” identification and “AC” Hallmark

NEW WATCH - CHOPARD - Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono 2011

168459-3037 – Limited edition of 2011 pieces in steel

161268-5010 – Limited edition of 250 pieces in rose gold

44mm case diameter
14.36mm thickness
100m water resistance
46-hour power reserve

Some newly decorated Chronograph pushers appear on this new version for 2011 together with a black engine-turned dial (the 2010 version has a similar dial in silver).

I much prefer this version to the 2010 version and think it will prove to be a huge success.

NEW WATCH - Jaeger-LeCoultre - Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Italico

Happy 80th anniversary Mr. Reverso watch. And happy 150th anniversary to unified Italy.

Jaeger-leCoultre pays tribute to these important anniversaries with an exclusive limited edition for the Italian market.

Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Italico in steel, limited edition of 150 pieces.
Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Italico in pink gold, limited edition of 50 pieces.

The distinctive feature of this special edition is its dial.

At 8 o'clock, the numeral is replaced with the letter R (and the word REVERSO forming the stem of the letter itself) in red. The letter R was in fact used in the Roman alphabet to indicate (in rare usage) the number octoginta, 80. The dial is also rendered unique thanks to elements in red, small details that recall the exclusive limited editions created for the Italian market (Master Ultra Thin Italico and Reverso 976 Italico).

After 80 years spent in celebration of classicism, the new Grande Reverso Ultra Thin wishes to be revolutionary, aiming for extreme simplicity. The extremely fine thickness of the Calibre Jaeger-LeCoultre 822 (just 2.94 millimetres) has allowed the thinnest ever Reverso to be created. The case is larger and truly stands out on the wrist, but the extreme thinness of the timepiece and its delicately moulded form mean that it is light and comfortable to wear.

The clean dial features vertical guilloché decoration, highly sober Arabic numerals, and fine blued hands: all the aesthetic codes of the Reverso are showcased here in this new ultra-thin version. This model expresses the very essence of the Reverso's personality, combining tradition with nobility, style and elegance.

Hublot supports the Manchester United Legends Tour in Asia

Visiting Bangkok on the 6th April 2011, Kuala Lumpur on the 8th April and Hong Kong on the 9th April, a memorable tour by the Manchester United legends has just taken place in Asia, supported by Hublot.

At each stop, the Manchester United legends attended a charity dinner in support of the Asia-wide “UNICEF Legends Charity Dinner”, organised by UNICEF and the Manchester United Foundation. All the funds raised have been channelled into UNICEF projects protecting at-risk young populations, including children, from the threat of HIV and AIDS.

To mark this occasion, Hublot designed and created three unique watches with the exclusive Red Devil emblem on the dial and an engraving on the back detailing each date and location (Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur & Hong Kong). These three watches were each put up for auction during the 3 dinners to raise funds for UNICEF and the Manchester United Foundation.

NEW WATCH - EDOX - X-TREME PILOT III, The New Bad Boy

The over-sized push-piece captures the attention, its electric green evoking the lights indicating the start of a race. Designed for WRC drivers, the watch is in ultra-light titanium and the movement rotated through 180 degrees, makes for instinctive and enjoyable use.

As ever, the WRC collection features many inspired details: wheel rims embossed on the caseback, green oversize push-piece in anodised aluminium and a tachymeter scale on the dial.

The new X-treme Pilot III Limited Edition is a real tool for drivers. It is limited to 1000 exclusive pieces and comes in its personalised presentation box. Edox is the official timing partner of the World Rally Championships.


Technical specifications
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date display, chronograph functions
Calibre: Edox 103, based on Ronda 5021.D
Diameter: 45 mm
Finishings: 316L stainless steel, black PVD coating on selected pieces, limited numbering of the watch engraved on a plate affixed to the case flank
Water resistance: 100 meters / 10 ATM / 330 feet
Dial: black carbon, green and white markings and indices
Glass: scratch-resistant sapphire with anti-reflective treatment
Strap: genuine black rubber (with WRC prints) with stainless steel clasp, embossed Edox logo

X-treme Pilot III Limited Edition - Available worldwide June 2011

Suggested retail prices : CHF 2350.- / EUR 1890.-

NEW WATCH - ORIS - CARLOS COSTE LE CENOTE SERIES

Fans of the Oris limited Edition Carlos Coste series will be jumping for joy right about now, because there is a new 46mm timepiece available for 2011.

Product Features

Oris Carlos Coste Limited Edition – Cenote Series
No. 674 7655 7184-Set Ø 46.00mm
Limited to 2000 pieces

• Automatic mechanical chronograph movement ETA 7750 with red rotor
• Hour, minute and stop second from the centre, subsidiary dials at 6, 9 and 12 h position.
• Titanium case with ceramic top ring and Superluminova inlay and screwed case back with Carlos Coste’s logo
• Pushers and screw down crown in stainless steel
• Automatic helium valve at 9 o’clock position
• Water resistant to 50 bar / 500 metres
• Black dial with applied indices filled with Superluminova
• Titanium metal bracelet with easy adjustable folding clasp

Set
• Multipurpose soft pouch, replacement rubber strap, tools for the bracelet change. Limited edition certificate

The new Carlos Coste Limited Edition Cenote Series boasts a number of original features to highlight Coste’s incredible feat (in 2010, Carlos Coste established a new Guinness World Record for free-diving, by completing a 150 meter underwater swim using no apparatus).

The essential minute counter glows in the dark for ease of reading and to indicate the time spent under water; a triangle on the 2 minute position symbolizes that Carlos would be reaching his own breath record of 2:30 minutes for a dynamic dive at this point, whilst a second triangle at the seven minute position highlights Carlos’s record of 7:30 minutes for holding his breath during a static dive.

The top ring of this watch is made of scratch proof ceramic, a plus for all extreme sports aficionados who need their watches to be as resilient as they are. The numerals and triangle at the zero position are filled with SLN to provide optimum visibility in darkness like that experienced during cave dives. The case back is graced by the Carlos Coste logo and the limitation number.

NEW WATCH - GIRARD PERREGAUX - SEA HAWK PRO 1000M

The GP Sea Hawk Pro has been around in a variety of iterations since 2002. It was a bold design in 2002, but the design now strikes me as a bit long in the tooth, especially circa 2011.

GP is not one to make any radical changes, but a rethink of the Sea Hawk Pro design might be in order.

On the plus side, the dial design is a pleasing matte black with subtle orange highlighting provided by the power reserve, small seconds, and minutes hand.

The 1,000 meter water resistance will make this watch popular amongst professional divers, but whereas in 2002 this watch had little company in terms of solid professional diving watches, in 2011 there is an abundance of choice for divers looking to purchase a true diver's watch.